Travel Santorini

Visiting the cliffside village of Oia has been #1 on my bucket list for some time. I have literally been dreaming about traveling to Greece with my guy for years. Needless to say, my expectations were super high and I was not disappointed. Not one bit. The white-washed buildings, blue domes and brightly colored bougainvillea vines perfectly compliment the Aegean Sea. I loved the simplistic romance of this place and couldn’t have dreamt up a better setting to celebrate our Anniversary. Around every corner there’s another view to get lost in together. It’s seriously a paradise and photographer’s dream. Traveling to the Mediterranean can be costly, but Santorini is one of those places you just HAVE to see. The panoramic views are breathtaking, the sunsets unrivaled and no where in the world will you find another place like it.

Getting there: Traveling to the island of Santorini is easy. You can arrive by ferry or plane. Flying Aegean/Olympic Air from Athens is just a 45 minute flight and under $200. Taking a ferry is a more economical choice (as low as $30), but depending on what boat you choose, can take anywhere from 5-10 hours. 

When to travel: The warmest (and busiest) months of travel are July-Aug. Accordingly to locals, the island pretty much shuts down during the winter months which leaves the shoulder seasons of April-June and Sept-Oct as the most desirable times to travel. We stayed in Santorini the last week of May. Jackets were preferred in the evening, but it was warm during the day. We had a few cloudy days where the views of the caldera were not as clear, but a break in heat and sunshine wasn’t the worst thing - especially when hiking! 

Where to stay: Oia (pronounced E-YA) is considered the most charming and romantic village: great little boutiques, winding stone paths, home to Ammoudi bay and the best sunset views on the island. It’s also the most well-known area so if tourists turn you off, consider staying in one of the lesser known villages such as Firostefani or Imerovigli (more on this later). Caldera views in Oia come at a premium, but it is worth it, at least for your first stay on the island. Hotels are plentiful, but we chose to stay in a traditional cave house instead. Not only are they more budget-friendly and private, it really adds to the overall experience. The property owner Maria took care of everything for us from arranging airport pick-up, handling our bags, booking tours and making helpful recommendations. It was like having a personal concierge service and allowed us to skip all the hassle and confusion we saw other tourists experience. If a traditional cave house interests you, Maria has multiple properties in Oia ranging from $100-700/night. The only thing we wish we had splurged on was a property with a hot tub, especially for those cooler nights! 

Fira is also an option, although we did not find it to be as picturesque. This is where the cruise ships port. Fira offers plenty of restaurants, less touristy shops and the closest thing to nightlife you’ll find on the island. I think it’s clearly a personal choice, but we were happy with Oia being our home on the island. 

After spending some time in the lesser known village of Imerovigli, we weren’t opposed to the idea of staying there for a second trip. The hotels are less expensive and the view of Skaros rock is sensational. Renting transportation is fairly inexpensive, so getting to and from Oia (about 20 minutes by ATV) wouldn’t be a problem. We found it very easy to relax there and again … the views! But if you are visiting Santorini for the first time, I would suggest Oia over Imerovigli. Here’s a few photos of our home away from home for the week – and the gorgeous patio view! 

What to do: The island is small and easily navigable. We spent five days there and it was the perfect amount of time to both explore and relax. Here are the top five things I recommend doing in Santorini!

#1 Explore the island by ATV: The number one activity I would recommend is renting an ATV to explore the island. You can also rent motorcycles (requires proof of license) or a car, but ATVs are widely used and totally safe on the roads. If I recall, it was $50-70 for a day rental and worth every penny. Go explore the other towns and backroads for spectacular views. Traveler tip: We booked a dinner reservation that evening at Ammoudi bay and avoided the 300 stairs trek back to town on full stomachs. You’ll thank me!

#2 Hike Skaros Rock: The best panoramic views I’ve ever witnessed came from hiking Skaros Rock in the village of Imerovigli. This was our favorite activity of the trip and a memory I’ll hold on to forever. We had great weather that day which I think could make or break the experience for someone. The hike has many stairs but with good weather (not too hot) it was bearable, even enjoyable at a leisurely pace. You don’t have to be experienced to do the hike, but you do need comfortable shoes. At the very end of the hike, if you want to climb on top of the rock it does takes some level of athleticism and I would not recommend it for someone with fear of heights … or falling off a cliff. It’s not an actual trail at that point as much as it is rock climbing. There were plenty of people who ended the hike once they reached the rock though. The views are out of this world and worth every step! 

A more notable hike is the path from Fira to Oia. From what I’ve read, the hike takes around 3 hours one-way, 4-5 hours at a very leisurely pace. The trail will lead you from Fira through the sister villages of Firostefani, Imerovigli and finally to Oia. The hike offers great caldera views and affords you the opportunity to see the lesser known villages along the way. If starting in Oia, you can find the trail head past a big yellow church on the square near the parking lot. There is a clearly marked sign on a rock wall that will get you on your way! 

#3 Cliff jumping at Ammoudi Bay: I love Ammoudi bay. The water is a gorgeous turquoise blue, the seafood is amazing and it’s home to one of the best swimming spots I’ve ever seen. If you’re looking for a little added adventure, you can swim out to a 20 ft cliff and cross jumping into the Mediterranean off your bucket list. In full disclosure, my husband did the cliff jumping, I did the sunbathing. But I absolutely loved swimming in the bay. It was an incredible experience! To get there, we decided to walk the 300 steps down from Oia to the port. There are no signs directing you to the place, but it’s an easy 5 minute walk. Just turn left from the bottom of the stairs and you’ll find your way! On the way back up, I considered briefly riding a donkey but felt too guilty. So instead, I suffered my way up the 300 stairs and regret it only partially :-) Here’s a few photos of our adventure! 

#4 Relax at the public pool: You’re not as likely to find this recommendation on another travel blog but it was one of the best surprises of our trip. Our property owner Maria gave us the in on this and I’m so glad she did. If you choose to stay in a hotel, you’ll likely have access to a pool. For those of you who choose a traditional cave house, this is the perfect and free option to lounge! If you search Lioyerma Lounge Cafe Pool bar on Trip Advisor you’ll see some pictures and have the address to locate it. The pool itself is free, and you can order drinks and food from the bar. The pool area wasn’t too crowded which is how I know this is a well kept secret. Traveler tip: arrive later in the afternoon and stay to watch an unobstructed view of the sunset in comfy lounge chairs. As far as I’m concerned, hitting the public pool should be on everyone’s list! 

#5 Sunset Boat Tour: The smell of the ocean and wind on my face is one of my favorite feelings in the world, so there’s no surprise I recommend taking a boat tour. Catamarans are pretty much synonymous with a good time and a must-do on this island. We chose to set sail with Sunset Oia and booked the sunset tour. Maria handled the booking and took care of transportation to and from the bay. The tour itself includes beach hoping and a stop at the infamous hot springs (which are more like warm springs at this point). Overall, we had a great experience. The boat was clean, the food good and the drinks plentiful. At the end of the evening, all the boats line up at the bay and chase the sun. It’s such a romantic setting and the perfect way to catch a world famous sunset. 

Where to eat: I was a little nervous in anticipation for this trip and trying traditional Greek food. I’m not proud to admit my palate is less than sophisticated, but that’s the honest truth. Between my husband and I though, we didn’t have a single dish we didn’t like. I pretty much lived on bread with tzatziki, olives, seafood and pasta. I found the menus had plenty of variety and can’t imagine anyone having a problem finding something they like. There are many restaurant options, both authentic and a little less traditional. We tried a bit of everything! 

Sweets: If you have a sweet tooth there is a great little gelato place called Lolita’s. It’s right by a small market where we got milk, bread, cereal, fruit and other essentials for the house. It’s right off the main street and very easy to find. It’s a hot place so if you’d like to skip the crowd, head to Skiza cafe for some of the best cheesecake I’ve ever had. So light and fluffy! Seriously divine. You can dine in or grab your dessert to-go.

Best seafood: For the best seafood, head down to Ammoudi bay. We made reservations for Ammoudi Fish Tavern as it came highly recommended. Other recommendations are Sunset Ammoudi Taverna and Dimitris Ammoudi Taverna. The view of the bay at sunset is truly spectacular. I ordered the Seafood Linguine and my hunky date enjoyed the largest grilled Tuna Steak I’ve ever seen. Hands down one of the best meals we had in Greece. 

Best cafe: If you are anything like us, you’ll be looking for excuses to just sit and take in the views. We frequented Vitrin Cafe Creperie because they had delicious cafe drinks and crepes. We would sip on our coffee and sing along to the American tunes playing. Maybe we were just homesick, but I swear he had a great playlist going.  

Best restaurants: I usually follow Trip Advisor like it’s the law but they have it wrong on this gem of a restaurant. Attentive staff, breathtaking views, great atmosphere and really, really good food. Apsithia is currently ranked #66 of 70 restaurants in Oia but only has three reviews (all five stars). Maybe it’s a new establishment or took new ownership – I’m not sure, but it was perfection. My other recommendation is Terpsi. The service was a bit slower here, but they offer breakfast, lunch and dinner. Great views and amazing food. The fresh squeezed orange juice was my love affair while on the island! 

My final recommendation? Run, don’t walk to Greece. Experience the magic of Santorini for yourself. One of my favorite traveling quotes is it’s better to see something for yourself than to hear about it a thousand times. There’s great truth in that. We all see things through a different lens and what one experiences may be completely different than your own. Personally, my favorite thing about Santorini was never escaping the views. It doesn’t matter where you are, there’s endless beauty in sight. Greece was truly the perfect way to end our Anniversary trip. Thank you for reading along and following our journey. Until next time! 


Travel Lake Como + Milan

Lake Como, set against the foothills of the Alps, is in the Northern Lombardy region of Italy. It’s home to the most stunning 19th century villas and picturesque villages. If you share my love for cobblestone streets, church bells ringing, guilt-free gelato, shopping boutiques, ferry rides, hiking (hence guilt-free gelato), wine tasting and eating the most amazing Italian food – then you’ve found your next destination. Lake Como is full of history, charm and romance – and the views are truly out of this world!

One of the pros about visiting Lake Como is its accessibility from a major city. It’s about one hour North from the center of Milan by train, two hours North from Milan-Malpensa Airport. Bonus: Milan right now is one of the cheaper European cities to fly into from the U.S. I ran probably 10 different cities through Google Flights and found Milan to be a very economical choice. Although Milan was never at the top of my bucket list, it was nothing to sneeze at either. Shopping in the fashion capitol of the world, anyone? 

Travel route to Lake Como (Bellagio): We had a limited amount of time to spend in Lake Como so to make the most of it, we traveled from the U.S. to Milan and took the train straight there. From Milan-Malpensa airport, we bought tickets and took the train to Milan Central station. It’s around 50 minutes in duration and runs every half an hour (16 euros/per person). Travel tip: be sure to get your tickets validated. We traveled by train often and only had someone check once, but it’s a hefty fine if you do not do it. Just look for a little yellow machine and insert your ticket before boarding. Another tip I’m sure you’ll see on every travel site you visit is not to accept help from anyone unless in official uniform. Just be cautious as these friendly people are trying to pickpocket you. I found Italians to be more welcoming than I expected, but you won’t find any kind samaritans at the train station. Next stop, Lake Como! 

We got off the train and bought tickets at Milan Central to Varenna-Esino. This is the only leg of the trip to Lake Como that took us a bit longer than we expected. But I’m here to help with that! If you know what you are doing, it’s a painless process. When you get off the train you’ll see dozens of self-service ticket machines. We could not find tickets to Varenna-Esino. We tried three, four different kiosks hoping to strike up some good fortune but eventually asked someone working a booth. Okay, that took three times too. Disgruntled, she pointed downstairs. So, we made our way downstairs and found there were more options on those kiosks as well as there are actual people behind a desk (like what you’d find at the airport) who can help navigate you if you’re still having trouble. Head back upstairs to check the lovely board with departure times to find which train you are boarding and you’re officially en route to Lake Como! The train ride to Varenna-Esino is 1 hour in duration and runs every half hour to hour (under 10 euros/per person). Traveler tip: sit on the left-hand side for spectacular lake views!

Now that you’ve arrived to Varenna, you’re just a 10 minute ferry ride from Bellagio. From the train station, you’ll need to take a 5-10 minute walk down to the ferry. I don’t remember the exact route, but you can bring it up on your phone, follow signs, or the dozen people in front of you doing the exact same thing. It’s easy. This part is nothing to worry about! Once you make it to the ferry station, purchase a ticket to Bellagio (10 euros/per person). Some of my favorite views came from this short 10 minute excursion (pictured below). No stops along the way, just a quick ride to one of the most charming towns in all of Italy!  

Bellagio: We didn’t explore every little lakeshore town, but I can still confidently tell you Bellagio (known as “the pearl” of the lake) is a must-see. We simply did not have enough time here so my review will be brief, but you can bet we left vowing to return together again soon. Traveler tip: if you want to explore Bellagio bag free, you can store your luggage at the tourist office in the ferry station at no cost. 

Bellagio is picture perfect. Stunning waterfront hotels, winding cobblestone streets, brightly colored buildings adorned by flowers and around every corner there’s more gelato. What’s not to love, right? We spent most of our day just exploring the streets, stopping in little shops along the way. Bellagio is known for their silk, so you’ll find beautiful hand-made scarves that are nothing short of a masterpiece in a little shop called Azalea. I also recommend checking out Nene Bellagio, a women’s boutique with a great selection of Italian-made clothing. 

The best surprise for us was stumbling upon Basilica di San Giacomo. It’s an old church built in 1075 rich in history. It’s free to enter and won’t take more than 20 minutes. It was truly a highlight for us and an inspiring place to rest. We ate at a little pizzeria called Torre del Borgo that doesn’t have the best reviews on yelp or Trip Advisor but is conveniently positioned right by the church and we were pushing starving. The service was okay, but we loved the pizza. The best of our trip, actually! I think what makes me most sad about having such limited time in Bellagio was not getting to try a variety of restaurants. They have everything from cheap eats to 5 star dining experiences. I don’t think you can go wrong here in the food department! 

Later in the day, we stopped by Aperitivo Et Al wine bar for a tasting of some local wines. They were so attentive to us and made the experience worthwhile. We enjoyed a break from the sun and came away with a few bottles to share with family back home. I highly recommend this place. Enjoy some pictures below of our day in Bellagio!

Villa del Balbianello: We took a private tour from Bellagio the next morning to Villa del Balbianello. It’s regarded as one of the most beautiful villas on Lake Como and I have no objections. We booked the service ahead of time through Bellagio Water Limousines. You won’t find a single negative review on Trip Advisor for them and here’s why: they do it right. The wife (originally Australian) does all the organizing. While many of the things we did on this trip took planning on my part, she made everything effortless for us. From booking tickets, to finding the boat – they take the hassle out of everything. The husband is captain of the boat and a great lake guide. You arrive to Villa del Balbianello and have an allotted time for an organized tour and free time later to explore the grounds. The tour itself was really interesting and not too long for our preference at least. When the tour was finished, I spent the entire time running around taking photos because I did not want to forget a single detail. Words and pictures do not do this magical place justice. The experience was worth every penny. 

Lezzeno: We actually stayed in Lezzeno which is less than 10km from Bellagio but more budget friendly and less touristy. We booked a b&b that sits on the lake which is a different feel than you’ll get in Bellagio. Now in full disclosure, if we were coming back to this gorgeous place, we’d stay in Bellagio. The benefit of staying in a town other than Bellagio for our first trip to Lake Como was getting to see more for less. We knew we’d spend a full day exploring Bellagio but this afforded us the opportunity to experience a place we wouldn’t spend a whole day exploring. We loved being right on the lake in a town of few tourists and nothing beats the incredible dinner views there. The biggest negative to staying in Lezzeno is the limiting ferry schedule to and from Bellagio (I believe it runs just twice a day). But, if you’re not relying on public transportation, you’re just a short drive away. Perfection. 

Accommodations: Nest on the Lake or Hotel Villa Aurora // Dining: Crotto dei Pescatori and Aurora Restaurant

Other areas of interest: If we had more time in Lake Como, we would have taken advantage of the many scenic hikes it offers. We made friends with another American couple at our b&b that took hikes to different churches and explored more of the neighboring towns than we did. They highly recommended it and with a little research, I bet you could find numerous trails with breathtaking views. Here’s a link to get you started. 

There are also other villas to tour around the Bellagio area, the most well-known being Villa Melzi. It’s about a 350 meter walk from the Bellagio ferry. It came highly recommended by numerous people. Here’s a link to a few others villas to explore. 

Lake Como is one of those magical places I could travel to over and over again. We’ve traveled to plenty of destinations we don’t need to travel back to. This is not one of those places. We’ll be back someday simply because we haven’t had enough of it. Until next time, Lake Como! 

Milan is a global capital for fashion and home to the national stock exchange. The city is rich in art, history, design and culture. If you thought our time in Lake Como was short, you’ll be especially disappointed in our attempt at experiencing Milan in just one day. We gave it our best shot though and honestly, we did not leave feeling like we rushed through the city. Let me be clear, in an ideal world, you want two full days to explore but we accomplished most everything we wanted to see and do! 

The biggest miss was not seeing Leonardo da Vinci’s “The Last Supper” mural at Santa Maria della Grazie convent. This is something I read we needed to book well in advance. As it turns out, even three months in advance was not long enough when booking for the end of May. We were really disappointed, but now we have good reason to explore Milan again in the future. On to the things we did do and enjoy! 

#1 The Duomo di Milano is without question a highlight of the city. Anything that takes nearly six centuries to complete, you can pretty much bank on being absolutely amazing. The rooftop was our favorite part of the overall experience. You can get some really incredible photos of the city and the gothic inspired detail is truly stunning. My only reservation with this experience was the amount of time it took to enter the cathedral. We went ahead and bought “skip the line” mobile passes here. Logistically, it should be pretty easy, but in total I bet it took almost 3 hours. To be fair, the ticket states to use the ticket you must “swap your voucher for a paper ticket, even if you print your voucher”. Also in the defense of the ticket company, it suggests going early in the morning or late in the afternoon of which we did not do. We slept in that morning #noregrets. You can bypass the excruciatingly long line into the cathedral, but not before hitting the tour operators desk to print your vouchers. This is the mind-numbingly slow part. You have to take a ticket, then wait for that ticket number to be called to get your voucher printed. Remember, even if you print the tickets, you still have to do this step. This took at least 2 hours, but once the voucher is printed, you can bypass another line into the cathedral which is a huge time saver. Until a better system is in place, there’s not much you can do but plan for it to be a lengthy process. If you are really proactive, you can shoot for early morning like they suggest and perhaps the process would be much quicker. This experience is without question worth it, just plan accordingly! 

#2 Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II is the shopping district located directly beside the cathedral and one of Milan’s best known landmarks. You’ll find designer shops like Prada, Gucci and Louis Vuitton. From the marble floors to the glass vaulted ceilings, it’s a great place to people watch and very quintessential Milan. For those of you looking for more affordable shops, if you head back to the square you can see stores like Zara, Sephora, even the Gap. They are all within walking distance so no need to hop on any public transportation. From there, we worked our way over to the Brera district. 

#3 Brera district was by far my favorite area of Milan to stroll through. The pace is much slower here and the cafes are great. It’s easier to window shop through this district and honestly it’s the most picturesque area. It’s just North from the cathedral and a very easy walk with good shoes. If it weren’t for convenience (with us staying just one day) I would have preferred to book a hotel in this area. Brera district is also home to one of Milan’s famous museums, Pinacoteca di Brera. It was our intention to go inside the museum but by the time we made it (thank you “skip the line” pass fail) we had just enough time to snap a few pictures and move on to our cooking class! 

#4 Take an authentic Italian Cooking Class for a real taste of Italy. This is something my husband and I were equally excited for. Someone welcomes you into their home, teaches you a few of their favorite recipes and then serves up a 4 course meal with wine over candle light. Sounds amazing right? It truly was thanks to the most gracious host, Aurora. There may be plenty more to do in Milan, but I’d suggest this class without hesitation. The menu consisted of fresh pasta, eggplant parmesan and tiramisu for dessert. We were paired with one other couple and thoroughly enjoy being Aurora’s dinner guests that evening. At the end of the night, she printed certificates for us and offered to send us the recipes via our emails. Talk about a lasting memory! 5 star experience, for sure. 

Accomodations: As previously noted, if I were staying in Milan for an extended period of time, I’d wish to stay in the Brera district. Hotels are a bit more pricey, but it’s a beautiful area of the city to stay. We elected to book a hotel within walking distance from Milan Central to eliminate a taxi service as well as it was more budget-friendly. For this purpose, Starhotels E.c.h.o. was a lovely place to stay. It was very clean, modern and had a decent sized breakfast buffet. It is also located conveniently close to the subway - just a few stops from the cathedral. My favorite part of the hotel was the rooftop view which you can access by going to the gym floor. All in all, we had no regrets with these arrangements. 

For those of you wanting to stay near the Milan-Malpensa airport, perhaps for a long layover, you must consider booking Emanuela’s b&b in the area of Castelnovate di Vizzola Ticino. It’s just a short 10 minute drive from the airport, but a true hidden gem of Italy. There is a Sheraton and Crown Plaza at the airport for those of you feeling less adventurous, but with zero hesitation I recommend Emanuela’s place instead. 200 feet from the b&b is a charming and authentic restaurant offering great ambiance and delicious food. It was one of our favorite dining experiences in Italy! The room is beautifully decorated, the home charming and the breakfast simple - but good. At $50/night, I simply cannot imagine a better experience. Emanuela also offers free transportation service to and from the airport. I highly recommend the b&b experience. Enjoy some pictures below of our day in Milan! 

Other areas of interest: We got mixed reviews on the Navigli district, but most say it’s an up and coming area with good restaurants. Another landmark we wished to explore is the La Scala Opera House. Great reviews from multiple people and I think it would make a great cultural experience. It’s on the list for next time! 

Of course, there are many, many more things to do and see in Milan, but this is the course we took. Exploring Milan and Lake Como was an unforgettable experience and the perfect beginning of our anniversary trip. Up next, I’ll be sharing a guide to our final destination, the gorgeous island of Santorini, Greece! 

 

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